Custom-made-to-order, Organic free-form jewelry


This is an example of my flamed glass.
Pendant electro-formed fine silver on glass. Private collection (1984).    

I developed the style and technique for my organic jewellery over 20 years ago, and as far as I know there isn't another jeweler doing anything like it. It was originally inspired by heating glass with my torch. I found that by stretching it and working it back on itself, I could develop very smooth, organic fluid lines that reminded me very much of art nouveau.

The lost wax casting process.
One of the basic techniques for creating jewellery is lost wax casting. This usually involves carving, and filing away from a block of hard wax. Another technique is one used by sculptors. This utilizes a soft modeling wax. The wax model is developed by rolling the wax out into elongated strips or flattening wax into sheets then bending and wrapping them into shape.

The wax model (ring) is then covered with a fireproof plaster, in a kiln the wax is burned out, and then the metal (gold, silver or platinum) is poured in. After the metal cools the plaster mold is dropped in a bucket of water and washed away to expose the one-of-a- kind metal casting. The gate is cut off and the rough casting is then filed and polished to perfection.

A thought occurred to me, what if I could stretch wax.
Over the next 5 years I experimented with all kinds of possibilities, leading in many different directions. Finally, at the end of a very long road I came up with a mixture of natural beeswax and organic tree resins. It may sound a bit spooky but every time I use this technique I feel that it's the spirit of the tree (resin) that is animating the wax. In this process unexpected creative accidents are constantly occurring, The way that the lines and surfaces will spontaneously play with each other, or the way totally unrepeatable folds and interesting textures will appear. The analogy that I like to use is, carving wax is like oil painting, you start with a sketch, and every brush stroke is defined. Where this process is more like watercolors, you just wet the page, apply the paint and as the paint flows, magic happens.

My organic free-form designs are all one- of-a-kind. Customers usually start by picking out their favorites, and then describe what it is that they like (and don't like) about them. As an example, would they prefer to see stones set in open areas or on more solid, wider, broader surfaces? Would they prefer bezels or prong settings? With pavé set stones or without? Do they like the drawn out tails that I create, or would they like more or less of them? Do they like the little spheres on the ends or would they prefer these lines just blend and disappear into the surrounding material?

I then create a collection of waxes, email images of these, and have you pick out your favorite. This wax is then cast into the desired metal. 

Metamorphosis "We Make Ideas Real"

Custom made - organic jewelry gallery